They say that waves come in a series of three. When entering the surf, count three big waves, then wait for the calm...that's the best time to enter the surf! If a wave looks like it's going to get you, dive under it. You're less likely to be tumbled! Make sure a grown up is with you!
P.S. That's my little nephew, Jake...he's the cutest thing I've seen this summer! We introduced him to his first wave over the holiday weekend!